Fri 5 – De Rijp, Purmerend

Cheese market

Our flexible crew again modify our itinerary according to local events. Today is the traditional cheese market auction celebration in the Alkmaar town square.

While this is essentially a tourist event, it nonetheless reproduces the scene that has gone back over the centuries as regional cheese makers sell their wares. The decorated town hall, dated 1572, with carillon playing in the bell tower, overlooks proceedings. (Jeanette recognised some music from the pen of JS Bach.)

From early morning, long rows of large cheeses are laid out in the square. These are large round discs, each weighing 11 or 12 kg. The decorated town hall dated 1572, with carillon playing in the bell tower, overlooks proceedings. (Jeanette recognised some music by JS Bach.)

Crowds are gathering around the barricades from 9 ready for the bell marking the start of the auction at 10 am. It’s also a public holiday for National Liberation day, commemorating the liberation of the Netherlands in the Second World War and remembering those who died in all conflicts. The mayor officiates, and some event hosts arrive in a US army jeep to mark the occasion.

The pageant actors consist of carriers clad in white with boater hats and ribbon; girls in red, white and blue traditional costume and clogs; and porters in blue or tan shirts. An MC announces the background and events fluently in four languages, while cameras roll and the video feed appears on a large square above the adjacent cheese museum.

The carriers in pairs lift large curved trays loaded with cheeses, like sleds on slings around their shoulders, and run in synchronised steps hither and thither in the square and town hall doors. Each sling has eight or so cheeses, so the load between the running bearers must be around 100 kg.

The impression is reminiscent of the buzzing and weaving trolleys at Aalsmeer flower auctions — but not nearly as intense. The porters are busy loading the sleds, while the pretty young Dutch maidens sell sample bags of cheeses and a few tourist trivia.
As the action fades, a friendly young porter (OK yes, they all look young to us) comes around the barricades offering to take that happy snap on your camera to record the excitement.

On your bike

The delayed departure after 11 am has been worthwhile, although it is the harbinger of a late arrival. The Elodie sails south along the canal until reaching a large lake, the Alkmaardermeer, where a reduced contingent of eight disembark, unusually onto a grass verge. As usual, Chef Sander becomes Seaman Sander, tossing mooring ropes over bollards with a practised eye and helping with gangplank and bikes.

The Riders head for De Rijp then south to inspect some different windmills. These do not pump water, but grind grain or power wood saws. A headwind is ready and waiting for them for the ride back to the NE to the final destination for the day.[Further contributions from riders awaited … ]

On the bridge

Meanwhile Elodie sails on through the canals, and even a lock, to Purmerend, where streets are busy with pedestrians and bands continue to mark the holiday celebration. (Map below and more details here>)

Track of the good ship Elodie. [Riders headed further south]

That evening, the last dinner on the boat, Jack, Shena and Tiny follow the tradition set up by Nev during our last trip to Paris two years ago, and present awards. These have clearly been developed in an environment completely free of democratic process or oversight by a diverse representative panel! But no-one can argue — they are right on the mark.

We are also moved to pay special tribute to the crew, whose dedication, innovation and service whether sailing, cooking or guiding, have been exemplary throughout.